Surfing As An Addiction?

courtesy of monkeyc.net

I’ve just read a very thought provoking post on the Surf Nation about surfing becoming an addiction or an obsession for many of us and the extend that some surfers would go for a good surf.

Is surfing is all about freedom as so many surfer believe and claim and if so how can it be so unbalanced?

Giving the question of the reasons for getting addicted to surfing to the extent that it interferes with other things we want to do in our lives I’ve reached an interesting conclusion.

A good surf enables me to feel a very special feeling, the kind of feeling that would keep in high on the clouds for sometime. Whenever I return to the normal everyday obligations I start loosing this feeling and when things start to get difficult I just have to surf again.

I truly feel that the sense is freedom is actually the ability not to care or to be too involved in many everyday stuff. In a sense as long as I have this feeling I’m not really there and shit doesn’t touch me. Whatever happens I can go out for a good surf and be somewhere else.

Maybe this is part of the famous ‘freedom’  that so many surfers talk about.