Saturday January 13, 2001 10:00a-1:00p Avg wave face 6-7 feet Sets wave face 8-9 feet, occ lil bigger Offshore & clear; Later became onshore & raining
Headed out mid morning with MM, looking for something fun to surf and we found it. Solid over head and maybe 3-4 people out. MM volunteered to first take a few shots with my digicam so I hurried to the shore. Scrambled down the lava wall to the water, taking extra care with my beautiful new ride that I picked up last night-
http://www.pixi.com/~buds/stik01aa.jpg
http://www.pixi.com/~buds/stik01ab.jpg
Waves weren't all that hot but I had fun, feeling out the new board. Every so often there were some solid 9-10 foot faces coming through; mostly a bit smaller. Early on I had a pretty decent tube... gave me a good vision for several seconds before it outran me.
Around 20 minutes later MM put the cam away and joined the lineup. About this time I caught a set from deep and two guys dropped in. They both stood before they saw me around the section. The guy closer to me kicked out right away but the other guy kept going, staying high and just looked at me as I tried to pass him from below. He could not surf that well and it seemed like he was gonna get pitched at any second, so I was forced to straighten out, ruining the wave for both of us. Didn't want anything to happen to my board on its *first* day.....
MM was blowing minds as usual, doing his patented square bottom turns into straight up lip blasts; He had put on a set of smaller fins that he had not used in several years. Said they seemed to work good.
About an hour later, I could not believe it- my incredible bad luck - kookness, whatever- with surfboards continues. I tagged a real nice right, about 1.5xoh and nailed a solid snap right in the sweet spot of the hook. Stoked! Right after that, I took a couple pumps through the next section and set up for a short floater over the last part of the breaking lip. While on the back of the wave, I was badly positioned on the lip and the board got yanked out from under me. The board flipped over on the way down and I landed on it at the bottom. My elbow gouged a hole the size of a baseball 2/3's through the board and crushed a 5 inch portion of the rail. So f**king bummed I cannot describe it. Headed in to get the board out of the water and take a few pics from shore. Suddenly clouds moved in, it started pouring and the winds turned straight onshore. Figures :-/
Later I took my board to a local shop to have it repaired right, but (because of the size & place of the damage) I'm worried the board will be even more susceptible to snappage. Just my luck.
Pics from the session here-
http://members.nbci.com/sharkysurf/074.html 
