Northern California adventure - part II

The swell has begun showing its face along the middle coast of Northern California and Kira and I began checking out spots as soon as Highway 1 opened out to the vast expanse of the Pacific. I found a spot just south of a tiny hamlet and then tried to figure out how to get down to the reef. The surf was pretty big and I have never surfed this wave before so I spent a fair amount of time watching where it peaked and broke and then what sections I would have to look out for. A good wave for the 10-10. After finding an access spot about two miles north of the break and then having to nagivate through an offshore rock field, I got into open water and paddled down to this reef. The waves were bigger than I thought and so it was a matter of sitting on the shoulder of the rights and getting more of a feel for this place. It was a little spooky but I farted out the butterflies and paddled to the peak. The first wave I pulled back on because I was a little out of position and almost took a trip over the falls. The second wave I found my spot and dropped into the belly of the beast. Faces were probably 25 to 30 feet and breaking hard and faster than some of the other big wave spots I have surfed before. I had a few sketchy rides before I found some comfort with the break and then it was all about dialing into some of the best waves of my life to this point!! There is nothing like the feeling of rocketing down giant walls and trying to carve the faces on a big ass board. The lefts were beckoning someone to come over and ride them, but I have limits as to what I will surf and this side of the peak made the list. I can imagine by the looks of some of the boils that there are nasty rocks waiting to chew a surfer and his board up. I swung around on one right and caught a little air before going sideways upon impact. I am glad that I landed the way I did because I was able to bodysurf out of the peak. The beating was still brutal and but it could have been a lot worse. I made sure to thank God for giving me an extra push. Wave count was 12 in four hours and the ratio was 8:4. 4 wipeouts are not bad for a first time go out. Kira and I now are in Fort Bragg, CA and we are trying to figure out if it is a good idea to keep going south to the point break or maybe spend more time at the new reef up north. The National Buoy Data Center's middle coast buoy was reporting 21.7 feet with 20 second periods. The choices we have to make in life.

Clay

i know of the place you're talking about and have seen it go off on a few big swells. i just didn't believe that it would ever be surfed. jeez man, the paddle you made to get there is seriously hardcore. i wonder what the end of the road looked like.

oh no, this is painful to watch...

I was going to let this pass, but Eric's my Lake County homeboy now, I got his back.

Eric, take that hook out of your mouth RIGHT NOW young man...

damn, it's an ugly wound. Let me get some neosporin.

<snip>

Nice report. And I think everybody can relate to the need to get rid of the butterflies and get in a groove. Being a small wave surfer (I can count the number of 2X OH days on one hand) I'm trying to get a feeling for your equipment. How wide is the 10-10 and how much rocker do you want on a stick like that?

eddie

Thanks bro. I always have a serious case of the jittery stomach when I paddle out into big surf but more so when it is a spot that I have never ridden before. Once I catch a couple of waves and get a feel for the situation then things smooth out and I feel good. My 10-10 is about 22 inches wide and 3 and one half inches thick about 2 inches up from the center point of the board. I do not know much about rockers and stuff but will ask the guy who shapes my boards when I return home.

Clay

nice report Clay.todd.

...............><}}}}}'>................ 'I wish, I wish, I wish I were a fish'

whaddya mean? i'm still waiting to find what on the 'hub' took over a year?????

has surfing media been revolutionized?

/me looks at watch.

opc73 you are a NW surfer right? dude is that you in the Alt.suring pic on the lip if not where is that pic taken at?

Snipped....

Wow! A 2 mile paddle, then surfs 30' surf alone and eats it 4 times, and still has the balls to ride 4 more.

U be a stud, or something!

Does it smell in here?

well gam, i think you need to do one of two things. a) get your head out of your ass or b.) get your head examined because obviously you don't know shit. your love affair with me and this oregonlocal has reached a point of obsession for you, hasn't it?

when was the last time you went surfing?