an Ocean Beach kinda day

it wasn't OB, but it sure felt like it.

i checked the home break this am after taking my daughter, veronica off to day care. it looked like every so often a decent set would come through, however the tide was too high for it to break with any quality.

i filed that info and went back to work on some stuff for a couple of hours.

later i suited up, optimistically thinking that, either the break would have gotten better or i'd have to patrol some of the best prospective breaks. it wasn't, so i decided to head south. i reached a mid-county beachbreak that from the bluffs looked promising. there were 2 guys out and though there was a lot of white water inside, there were some clean peaks and some size on the sets.

while combing the beach for a channel (there weren't any consistent ones), i watched one guy get beat up for about fifteen minutes while he painstakingly paddled out past the inside sandbar. a couple of tourists were shooting videos and making comments like 'surf looks good, yah? they became entranced when i pointed out how much of a beating the guy was taking.

he eventually made it out and i paddled out experiencing much of the same paddle, duck-dive, paddle, duck dive repetition before making it outside. the set waves had some size and power, while much of the in-between waves were mushier. lots of close outs to avoid ( though i dropped into a couple of them). i got a couple of nice rides as did the other two guys out there.

then a large set, head-high or overhead, came through. i got a nice, but short ride and was stuck in the impact zone. i headed for the beach and was going to call it a day. however, when i got to the beach, i saw a perfect overhead barrel roll through. the other guys out had also gone to the beach during the set were seeing the same thing.

for the next 20 minutes or so, the 3 of us battled our way out to the line up again. once out there i saw each of the other guys get nice rides and was waiting for another large set to come through. i started paddling for a nice building left. i dropped in blindly, as the sideshore wind hurled spray in my face. i landed and carved back up the face. i hit the apex picking up lots of speed on the drop and down the line, a few more carves before the wave closed out and i was headed for the beach.

i felt pretty good after that. it was one of the most intense waves of the summer for me. the weird thing is this is july!

good report, lloyd.

Lloyd...your home break isn't in Pacifica is it?

Glad you had fun today.

I surfed Linda Mar around high tide on the outgoing and it was surprisingly good for wind swell- chest-head. The lefts during the outgoing in front of the creek were working pretty well.

(snip most of a great surfing report & post)

Yeah!!! So Beautiful To Hear Of The Righteous Wave You Rode, Lloyd! And may more of the same be heading you all's way this very week!

Loved reading your Ocean Beach report....and hearing about what it was like just to be there, in general!!

Loved so much, also, the video of you talking about your very classic board, that Gioni posted at his web site!! http://scsurfers.com/movies/cruzapalooza2001.html

Fond Greetings To You & Your Family,

Dee Dee

thanks dee dee. many waves to you and yours.

just a bluff away from where you went out. glad you got some as well. we should be getting together for a surf sesh soon.

dblake says...

A 'hardy' waverider named Dave Went in search of a rideable wave. When he found, 'It was cold.' Did 'cringe' I am told. And skipped going out, What a Knave!!

Et tu Davie <bg>

-Foon (Water temps 71 here, trunkin it.)