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On the way out, I noticed that the air felt like a nosebleed, with the smell of iron and icicles. It's easiest to shake off a hangover if you get up an hour earlier than your brain. The idea is to be in the water before it hits you. Before you realize that you still can't see straight, and your mouth tastes like a gorilla's armpit. Surfing is like a great hallucination, well, even better: Surfing lets you relive those small moments of your life, wether they be positive or not, in a better light. That must be why I roll out of a heated waterbed at dawn, away from my olive concubine, out of the warmth of the blankets, stepping over minibottles and water bongs out of the known, into, well, the ocean.
I don't need a swell model, I don't want the marine forcast. The cracked pane on the old school window in the guestroom rattles when the surf stands up. ..And boy was she working this morning. .._ . .._ (S.O.S.) it was tapping, I rolled out of bed giggling in that manic way that has me wondering if I'm going to be up for the next week raging.
..and raging is right, it's working outside, and I'm alone. My head is buzzing, and I become aware of my breathing as I drop on the first wave.
..'it feels unnatural, but it's the only way to catch 'em' bottom turn, I love when you can feel the wall pushing right back, 'you have the right to remain silent' top turn and the board is humming, so is my head, adjust the stance and pull a nice line to make it through the first quick section 'if you don't plea, the DA WILL pull states' evidence' I pull ahead into a slow, sweeping cutback, I appreciate the quick feel of the shorter, lighter board, I quickly ponder my longboard 'for 90 days and 4 years, your asses are the property of the United States government, we will break you and build you into the image of a warrior' the wall is gathering up for me again, maybe I should take a vacation where I can spend a few days on a good break like this.'momma's gone, she's gone..'I could probably pull..woosh, here's a cool little section, barrell ? yes?.maybe next one?'Cum Laude, congratulations sir'...'what God has joined, let no man put asunder' and over the top. I can't help but think: 'what a hellacious paddle ahead'.
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